November 15, 2024

Lab-grown fish: An answer to Asia’s overfishing crisis?

topic:	Food Security
editor:	Nour Ghantous

As pressures mount on fragile marine ecosystems, FairPlanet’s recent podcast explores an innovative solution to Asia’s overfishing crisis: lab-grown fish.

Co-produced with Sustainable Asia, this episode unpacks the complex intersections of cultural heritage, environmental conservation, and innovative technology that could change the seafood industry.

Fish maw, or the swim bladder of fish, is a delicacy in Asian cuisine and traditional medicine, valued for its high collagen content and believed to offer health benefits. The delicacy is deeply embedded in Hong Kong’s seafood culture, representing a status symbol and a traditional health remedy. However, the rising demand for fish maw is driving species like the Mexican totoaba and the Chinese bahaba to the brink of extinction.

Dr Kenneth Lee, a biologist and consultant for Avant Meats, explains the environmental consequences, noting that the loss of fish species not only disrupts the marine food chain but also threatens the ocean’s carbon sink capabilities—an essential component in climate regulation. "For example, in fish, they eat more algae[…]their poop helps get rid of 1.65 billion tonnes of carbon from the atmosphere," Lee explains, highlighting the role of marine life in absorbing carbon.

Avant Meats, a Hong Kong-based biotech company, is tackling this issue by creating lab-grown fish maw. Carrie Chan, Avant’s co-founder, saw lab-grown seafood as a necessary alternative when she recognised that a shift toward plant-based diets alone would be too slow to counter climate change.

"If we wait for everyone to become plant-based…we won’t make it in time for the planet," says Chan. Lab-grown fish maw is produced by cultivating cells plucked from fish, which are developed outside the animal’s body. The process results in a product that mirrors traditional fish maw's texture and collagen-rich profile without depleting marine resources.

However, the transition to lab-grown fish maw is not without challenges. Despite its environmental benefits, producing lab-grown fish at scale demands high energy input.

Dr. Lee highlights the cost-prohibitive growth factors and nutrient-rich environments required to culture fish cells in large volumes. "To grow these cells, they have to be like a baby […] you have to have all the nutrients," Lee notes.

Moreover, the podcast reveals that cultural acceptance remains a hurdle. For many in Asia, fish maw holds deep-rooted symbolic value as a luxury item and a traditional health remedy.

The episode also features voices from Hong Kong’s dried seafood industry, like Tracy Fu, whose family business relies on fish maw sales. Fu reveals that some clients view fish maw as an investment and are willing to pay exorbitant prices for rare species.

"The maw from endangered fish species can cost up to tens of thousands for a small piece," she explains. This has led to a black market for endangered fish maw, often called the "cocaine of the sea."

The team discusses how lab-grown alternatives could help alleviate the demand for wild fish stocks, preserving endangered species while offering a culturally acceptable solution.

With climate-conscious consumers on the rise, lab-grown fish maw represents a promising compromise. It has the potential to curb overfishing, protect oceanic biodiversity, and support the health of the ocean’s carbon sinks. Yet, the podcast raises critical questions about scalability, affordability and public acceptance. As traditionalists hold fast to wild-caught fish maw, the future of lab-grown seafood in Asia may hinge on education and generational change.

Tune in to discover how FairPlanet and Sustainable Asia are pushing the boundaries of solutions journalism to address one of Asia’s most pressing environmental issues.

Image by Casey Lee.